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Harriet Walker

Harriet Walker works on The Independent's fashion desk.

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London Fashion Week a/w2010: day 2

Posted by Harriet Walker
  • Sunday, 21 February 2010 at 10:25 am
Fashion Week continues apace, but here are some pictures from yesterday.
Highlights included Kinder Aggugini's Napoleonic-inspired collection, completed with adorable 2D berets and tricorns by milliner Stephen Jones. Aggugini showed military detailing, sharp tailoring and flowing empire line maxi-dresses in a collection that cited Madame Juliette Recamier as its inspiration - a high-minded literary woman who stood up to Napoleon.

The catwalk was decorated like an eighteenth century salon, with chandeliers and ornate gold statues littering the runway.












There was more headgear on display at Fashion East, the Brick Lane-based collective that helps young designers get a foot in the door of London's busy schedule. This year the chosen three were hatter Nasir Mazhar (right) whose wild creatins ranged from a bear-shaped bonnets made of sugary blue and pink lace strips, to a black medieval hennins, with a veil that trailed the floor. He also showed imaginative accessories, including a pair of steel claw gauntlets, as well as bags and rucksacks.

Heikki Salonen (left) showed a minimalist collection with a gothic edge, comprising strict and taut tailoring in muted colours, intriguingly puffed puffa jackets, leather detailing and highly constructed denim pieces. NEWGEN sponsored Michael van der ham was next, with his distcintive method of patchworking different genres of garments to create piece that defy definition and chronology. The result was disco-florals, prim brocade and hacked-up cocktail gowns.

 

Topshop's Unique show was next, and it was brilliant. All snuggly winter woollens styled by Katie Grand in an eccentric country-house-weekend sort of way. There were fuzzy animal hats and antlers too by the wonderful Emma Cook, but Team Indyfashion's seats were not conducive to taking photos...

Thankfully we could see a bit more at Mark Fast, who had big names and big ladies walking for him. Plus-size goddess Crystal Renn made an appearance, and one-time Independent cover star Anouck Lepere closed the show, while partner Jefferson Hack looked on proudly from the front row. Fast's intricate and complex knitting techniques make for clothes that are at-once chic and cool, as well as incredibly tricky. Clingy wool dresses were slashed and cut into, with holes as integral to the structure as yarn is. There were also draped jumpers and dresses, capes and scarves. And with so many audience members wearing his pieces in tribute, Fast is certain to get bigger and bigger - just like his models.

Fast showed back-to-back with Mary Katrantzou, whose collection included more of her signature digital printed dresses.

We squashed into House of Holland after that, to see a collection of bandana printed mini dresses, accessorized with chunky bling earrings, side ponytails and slogan T-shirts.

 

Ann-Sofie Back was our last show of the day, and it was a favourite with the team. Her imagination gives her collections a real edge - this one was based on an avatar of herself that she created in the online game, Second Life, and feature jeans with wispy chiffon wings attached to the posterior, cutaway floor-length dresses, chiffon trousers embellished with ruching and pleating, and elephantine grey suede. All to the deafening soundtrack of blood-curdling, screaming emo musdic. Just the ticket.




 

 



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