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Harriet Walker

Harriet Walker works on The Independent's fashion desk.

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London Fashion Week - Central Saint Martins

Posted by Harriet Walker
  • Saturday, 21 February 2009 at 06:16 am
The Central Saint Martin's MA course, as directed by the bellicose Louise Wilson, has long been recognised as a breeding ground for the capital's talent - alumni include Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Julie Verhoeven. The offerings this evening did not disappoint, ranging from traditional womenswear, menswear, and touchy-feely velvet-based fabrics, to utilitarian accessories and ubiquitous, sculptured textile play. Award-winners included Michael van der Ham and Oden Wilson, who showed modernistic deconstructed brocade body-con, and metallic-embellished chain-detail eveningwear respectively.

The delightfully abstruse collective showcased the expected selection of fledgling talent from the college, whose alumni include Christopher Kane, Louise Goldin and Marios Schwab. These young designers' influence was obvious in some of the maxi-length lurex dresses and svelte silhouette knitted body-con. Embellishment came in the form of visceral, dripping sequins, bouncing baubles and graphic motifs, while drapery and the Grecian chiton were maintained motifs - trends which seem to be with us for the duration, throughout spring and autumn, at least.

Extras came in the form of padding, cartoon illustration and texture - Laura Mackness, one of the recipients of the much-hyped Armani bursary, gave us a coat made entirely of citrus yellow lollipop sticks, emblazoned with graffiti eyes and an anatomically uncomfortable smiley mouth. Hers was a collection that made us smile (a distinctive lure right now), and included modernistic ruffs and fringing, superhero additions and muscle-bound outlines that make us want to eat more spinach.